River City Home Services

Verification Inspections

2008-07-08T21:20:00.002-05:00

Inspector Tom has been busy lately with Insurance Verification Inspections. Insurance verification inspections are just as they are described. We "verify" that what the insurance company is insuring is actually at the site. These types of inspections can be completed on one piece of leased equipment or on a building as large as a covered mall.

As you know, the home mortgage industry has taken a large punch in the gut over the issueing of mortgages that had no hope of succeeding to maturity. As a result the entire industry has suffered. I am commenting on this today because we in the Inspection industry have also taken a hit. This is however, a very good time to buy a house. The surprising part of all this is that the interest rates have not changed much at all.

The price of gasoline has driven everyone to seek housing closer to their place of work. Inner-city housing is becoming very popular and developers are scrambling to find buildings to renovate in the inner city. Abandoned areas of large metropolitan areas are becoming once again populated. It is a real migration from the suburbs back to the urban area.

I look forward to doing inspections for insurance companies who are tied with urban developers and inner city real estate sales. I can see a whole new market exploding. The inspector who does not want to conform to the different housing choices in the inner cities will be missing the boat.

Keep your eyes open! Look for future developments to happen inside the city, not in the suburbs.

Until next time-Inspector Tom

10 Steps to Hiring a Service Professional

2008-04-27T22:38:00.002-05:00

Before hiring any service professionals there are several procedures that you should perform. The following are just a few:

10 Steps for Hiring Service Professionals


#1. Confirm the salesperson works for the company.
·	Verify that the individual with whom you are speaking is an authorized agent of the company.

#2. Ask for a copy of the company's license.
·	Ask the company to provide a copy of their license. It is important that you verify the license is still in good standing. Be aware that certain states licensing requirements are based on dollar amounts and not project type

#3. Ask for proof of insurance.
·	Ask the company to provide a copy of their insurance certificate. We recommend that you verify with the insurance agency or carrier that the policy is still in good standing. General Liability insurance generally covers a contractor for accidents that occur while the contractor is working, however there are exclusions to coverage, and you should confirm the actual scope of the contractors coverage directly with the contractor.

We recommend that before working with a service professional, you verify that information presented is still current and/or acceptable to you. We recommend that you obtain a copy of the service professional's insurance certificate where applicable.

#4. Finalize the contract before starting on a project.
	A good contract...
·	Should be written on company letterhead.
·	Should contain the company's name, address, phone numbers, and license number (if applicable).
·	Should contain the consumer's name, address (where work is to be performed), and phone numbers.
·	Is dated when it is written.
·	Includes a detailed description of the work that is going to be performed.
·	Provides dollar amounts associated with each task included in the project.
·	Includes an anticipated start and finish date.
·	Provides a payment schedule.
·	Includes a termination clause.
·	Contains a clause that protects you the homeowner from any potential mechanics liens once you have paid the contractor in full.
·	Clearly states whether permits will be pulled, and who will be responsible for pulling them.

#5. Make payments to the company that was referred.
·	Do not pay an individual.

#6. Avoid paying with cash.
·	Check and credit cards are preferable, and be sure to get a receipt for all payments.

#7. Withhold final payment until you are satisfied with the project.
·	Don't pay in full until the project is completely finished and you have completed your final inspection.
·	If subcontractors were used, be sure to get signed releases from all sub contractors clearly indicating that they have been paid in full by the general contractor.
·	For larger projects, don't make the final payment until you have passed the final building inspection.

#8. Don't advance money for materials.
·	If absolutely necessary, make sure the materials are delivered to your house with a receipt showing that they have been paid in full.

#9. Check multiple references.
·	In addition to reading the company's ratings & reviews, consider checking additional references for the service professional.

#10. Document all changes to the contract.
·	Make sure all changes to the original contact, no matter how small, are documented and signed off by both parties.

Particular Uses for PHOTO-Spect

2008-03-12T17:55:00.005-05:00

The PHOTO-Spect movement is off and running. You are probable asking yourself why and how would I ever use a service like PHOTO-Spect? Well here are some particular uses for this service.

How about finding out if your proposed project is going to be in compliance with the code? You might not even have to do photos to do something like this.
Maybe you just want some advice on how to get started on your project. Send us a series of photos to inquire about the proper procedure.
Send us photos with a short description of what your contractor is doing to answer any doubts you may have. Take a couple of photos on a certain subject procedure and tell us what questions you may have. We will review the photos and then get the answers to you in return email.
Maybe your does not seem to be going as you had thought it should be going. Does this situation (photo) meet the current applicable Building Codes? Give us as much detail as possible and our expert Code Officials will give you the most comprehensive answer possible. We will give you the Code Reference details with the explanation.

Deciding if you can or should do the project in the first place is something you should have as much information as possible to make an informed decision. Get going on the PHOTO-Spect mailing list today! Make sure you have ALL THE INFORMATION ! We will look forward to hearing from you as soon as possible. Inspector Tom

PHOTO-spect Is Catching On

2007-12-08T10:08:00.000-06:00

One week and already generating interest! Don't lose out on your determination! Send in your photos, Cd's, or even videos now! tamrspoor@gra.midco.net is the place to send them to . Don't wait, you can have your determination done within the next 24 hours by our Certified expert, Inspector Tom. Responses are coming in daily-get on today's review, NOW! Remember, $39.95 for the first 7 photos and $2 per photo after that. You cannot get a review of your property done at a more reasonable rate ANYWHERE! *Please send your payment by check or money order along with your order made out to: TSI/Tom Spoor. Mail to 511 7Th Av. SE, East Grand Forks, MN 56721. Photos received without payment will be returned on the next business day. Payments without photos will be held for 24 hours awaiting photos. Satisfaction guaranteed. Unrelated content photos will be destroyed.

River City Home Services Adds Service

2007-12-05T16:32:00.000-06:00

PHOTO-Spect How would you like to have your home looked at by a Certified Professional Home Inspector and not have to pay to have your Inspector on site? How would you like to get a Professional opinion on any problem you might have with your home at the lowest prices in the Inspection industry? River City Home Services can do just that for you! If you have a digital camera and are able to take photos of your project; you can have a Professional Report sent to your e-mail inbox as quickly as 24 hours after submittal of your photos. Photo-analysis is cost effective, fast, and as accurate as your photos allow. Does this sound like something you would like to try? Just contact River City Home Services by simply sending an e-mail, calling us on the phone; or just click the "Call Me" button on this page and I will personally call or e-mail you immediately. This service can be an invaluable tool when it comes to selling your home. A Professional analysis will help you decide if you need to get a complete Home Inspection, or if you just need minor repairs done to your home. May be you are just looking for an opinion as to what condition your home is in now. Your Professional Report can be used to make any necessary repairs to your property before perspective buyers see it or you list it on the market. It is an accurate review of your home with comments from a Building Code Professional, and the Code references to back up our determinations. Your analyst is Certified by the most respected name in the Home Inspection business, the National Association of Certified Home Inspection, (NACHI); Licensed as a Building Official in the State of Minnesota, Certified as a Home Inspector in the State of North Dakota and a current member of the International Code Council. We bring you over 10 years experience in the housing industry, with thousands of inspections ranging from new construction to existing structures to formal damage determinations. With the depressed housing market in recent months, it only makes sense get as much out of your home sale or investment as possible. This service is provided as an alternate way to get a Professional Analysis of our property without the high cost of Home Inspections. Our pricing is set with a minimum fee of just under 10% of the average cost of a formal Home Inspection. Our prices start at $39.95 for the first 7 photos, and just $2 per photo beyond the initial 7 sent. Your photos should include as much detail as possible with a very short description of the content. DO NOT HESITATE! GET YOUR PROFESSIONAL ANALYSIS AND REPORT COMPLETED TODAY! *This service will be provided upon receipt of legitimate photographs only! The more detail included in your photographs, the more comprehensive your report will be. Fees are based on the number of photographs submitted. A short narrative, describing in general terms what is in the photo should accompany each photo. Photos of questionable content, photos sent by mistake, or material outside of the scope of the International Residential Code or International Building Code; will be returned to the sender or destroyed upon your directive. All photos become the property of River City Home Services for the duration of your analysis only. Your photos will not be used or compromised in any manner other than for this Professional Analysis and your report.

How much insulation is enough?

2007-11-03T05:46:00.000-05:00

How much insulation is enough? Insulation requirements vary with the area of your home. The attic insulation requirement by the International Residential Code is a minimum of R-38. This means that the "blown-in" level of insulation in your attic space should be approximately 16". I added some insulation to my attic space by blowing 10 bags of insulation with a machine from my local lumber yard. The use of the machine was free with the purchase of the insulation. The insulation cost was approximately $55 per bag. Insulation in your walls should be a minimum of R-19 as required by the IRC. Older homes will not meet the minimum requirements. Most of the older homes, depending when it was built, will vary with the thickness of the wall. A wall with 2 x 4 construction will be R-11 to R-13. Bringing older homes up to code compliance standards can be challenging. Most older homes are brought up to these standards by adding insulation to the exterior of the walls with insulation board under new siding, for example. Other areas of concern are the rim joist area. This is the area above your foundation wall between the top of the foundation wall and the bottom of the first floor. This area i s a major heat loss area and should be addressed bu adding insulation. This can be done by using R-19 batt type insulation, plastic foam insulation (minimum 2" thick), or faced style insulation with a paper face or foil face type. Whatever your choice, the rim joist area is a major contributor to higher heat bills. Whatever your choice for adding insulation to your home, you should first consult a professional insulation contractor. Make sure your contractor is reputable, licensed and trustworthy. Any insulation improvements are going to reduce your energy bills and saving money is what this is all about. Insulation upgrades usually pay for themselves in a very short time. Building Codes are minimum standards. They are set as guidelines for builders and independent contractors. Ask your insulation contractor what he thinks the minimum amount of insulation should be. Compare his answer with the minimum code requirements as stated above and you will know what to do from there. GOOD LUCK and keep warm this winter. -Inspector Tom

Ten Steps to Hiring a Service Professional

2007-10-21T21:46:00.000-05:00

TEN STEPS FOR HIRING SERVICE PROFESSIONALS 1. Confirm the salesperson works for the company. Verify that the individual with whom you are speaking is an authorized agent of the company. 2. Ask for copy of the company's license. Ask the company to provide a copy of their license. It is important that you verify the license is still in good standing. Be aware that certain states licensing requirements are based on dollar amounts and not project type. 3. Ask for proof of insurance. Ask the company to preface a copy of their insurance certificate. We recommend that you verify with the insurance agency or carrier that the policy is still in good standing. General Liability Insurance generally covers a contractor for accidents that occur while the contractor is working, however there are exclusions to coverage, and you should confirm the actual scope of the contractors coverage directly with the contractor.

We recommend that before working with a service professional, you verify that information presented is still current and/or acceptable to you. We recommend that you obtain a copy of the service professionals insurance certificate where applicable.

4. Finalize the contract before starting on a project. A good contract... should be written on company letterhead. Should contain the company's name, address phone numbers, and license number (if applicable). Should contain the consumer's name, address (where work is to be performed), and phone number and is dated when it is written. Should include a detailed description of the work that is going to be performed. Provides dollar amounts associated with each task included in the project. Includes an anticipated start and finish date. Provides a payment schedule. Includes a termination clause. Contains a clause that protects you the homeowner from any potential mechanics liens once you have paid the contractor in full. Clearly states whether permits will be pulled, and who will be responsible for pulling them.

5. Make payments to the company that was referred. Do not pay an individual.

6. Avoid paying with cash. Check and credit cards are preferable, and be sure to get a receipt for all payments.

7. Withhold final payment until you are satisfied with the project. Don't pay in full until the project is completely finished and you have completed your final building inspection.

8. Don't advance money for materials. It absolutely necessary, make sure the materials are delivered to your house with a receipt showing that they have been paid in full.

9. Check multiple references. In addition to reading the company's ratings & reviews, consider checking additional r references for the service professional.

10. Document all changes to the contract. Make sure all changes to the original contract, no matter how small, are documented an signed off by both parties.

Remember! It is your project, don't assume that a service professional is always going to have your interest at heart instead of his own. Good Luck! Until next time-Inspector Tom

Did Your Inspector Bribe Your Real Estate Agent?

2007-09-22T14:15:00.000-05:00

Real estate agents, particularly buyers agents, have a fiduciary duty to their clients to recommend the very best inspectors based solely on merit. Buying a home is a rare occurrence for most people and the agent’s professional recommendations are very much needed and relied upon.

However some inspectors bribe real estate agents to give them good recommendations. These inspectors pay the agents (or their real estate companies) to be on what is often called “preferred vendor lists.” The real estate agents then recommend the inspectors who have paid the most (not necessarily the best inspectors). The agents trick their clients into thinking these inspectors are recommended because they are competent, when in fact the real estate agents are only recommending these inspectors because the inspectors “bought” the agents’ praise. How can a consumer be sure the agent is fulfilling his/her fiduciary duty and recommending the best inspector based on merit? Several home inspection associations have Codes of Ethics which prevent their members from bribing real estate agents and prohibit participation in preferred vendor schemes. These inspectors do not buy their referrals but instead rely on their own good reputations. Home buying consumers should always check to make sure the home inspector is a member of one of the following trade associations that prohibit participation in preferred vendor schemes: -American Society of Home Inspectors at www.ashi.org-Master Inspector Certification Board at www.certifiedmasterinspector.org-National Association of Certified Home Inspectors at www.nachi.org A consumer who is referred to an inspector who is not a member of any of the aforementioned associations can never be sure if the recommendation is based on merit or money.

The Advantage of Pre-Listing Inspections

2007-09-08T02:16:00.000-05:00

There are several advantages to getting a Pre-Listing or Seller Inspection. First of all let's understand what a pre-listing inspection is. This type of inspection allows for a home seller to get a jump on new buyers by getting the home inspection before the home is listed for sale. Advantage 1: I can know just what needs to be fixed before the buy points it out to me. Advantage2: I can save the buyer the expense of a home inspection Advantage3: My real estate agent can use my inspection to help sell my house Advantage4: The seller can choose a certified NACHI inspector rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector. Advantage 5: The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience. Advantage 6: The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection. Advantage 7: The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated. The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist. The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected. Advantage 8: A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which might make the home show better. Advantage 9: A pre-listing or seller inspection permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report. Advantage 10: A pre-listing or seller inspection removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table. These are just a few of the advantages of having your inspection done before you list your house for sale. Can you think of any more? Let me know-send me a comment (tamrspoor@gra.midco.net) . Until next time-Inspector Tom

Pre-Listing Inspections

2007-06-29T16:12:00.000-05:00

Eventually your buyers are going to conduct an inspection of your home. You may as well know what they are going to find by getting there first. Having an inspection done by a Certified Home Inspector ahead of time helps you in many ways. Some of the ways are as follows: 1. it allows you to see your home through the eyes of a critical third-party 2. it helps you to price your home realistically 3. it permits you to make repairs ahead of time 4. defects won't become negotiating stumbling blocks later 5. there is no delay in obtaining the Use and Occupancy permit 6. you have the time to make the repairs 7. it may encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency 8. it may alert you to items of immediate personal concern 9. it may relieve your prospect's concerns and suspicions 10. it reduces your liability by adding professional supporting documentation 11. it may alert you to immediate safety issues before agents and visitors tour your home Copies of the inspection report along with receipts for any repairs should be made available to any potential buyers. Good Luck-Inspector Tom

Ask the Inspector

2007-06-17T05:28:00.000-05:00

River City Home Inspection is now taking questions you may have on any home inspection topic that comes to mind. You can use this blog's associated e-mail address to submit your questions, or you can send your questions in the form of comments directly to this blog. The e-mail address to use is spoor.tom@gmail.com. Give it a try, we will respond asap.

Home Inspections-Mechanical

2007-06-13T02:16:00.000-05:00

The mechanical portion of your home inspection should be as thorough as any other segment of your inspection. Your inspector should be aware of your heating source, your cooling source, a general idea of how your equipment works, and how old your equipment is. Your inspector should be reporting on the overall performance of your equipment without an in depth inside look into your furnace heat exchanger, for example. Running your furnace fan, checking the limits of your thermostat, checking for dirty filters, ducts, other overall performance items should be included in your inspection. Simply stating that the furnace is a gas forced air type furnace is not enough. Doing an air sample of the ducted air is not a service your inspector should be performing, however, checking the fan operation, looking inside the cover for service records, general housekeeping items such as cleanliness, filter cartridge, and exhaust of the furnace are some of the items that should be included. Your inspector should be reporting in general terms, but specific enough for you to realize just what must be done before your purchase. Ask your inspector for general opinions. He(she) should provide just that, not in depth reports on the specific type of furnace you should be using. Anything beyond generalities and suggestions gives the impression of a secondary motive. Remember, you as a home owner want to know the general condition of the home you are about to purchase or sell. You want to know what needs to be addressed immediately, what can be addressed later, and what items are in good shape. Make sure you ask the appropriate questions. Next time- What services should be expected from an inspector -Inspector Tom

What Your Inspector Should Look For/Bathrooms

2007-05-26T13:43:00.000-05:00

Well, it has been some time since last we blogged. We will now take a breif look at what your inspector should be checking in the bathroom. To begin with, the inspector should run all the water, including flushing the toilet, and running the water in the shower. This to check the pressure of the water in the house, and to see how long it takes to get the hot water to the point of use. It should not take more than 30 seconds for the water to start warming up and become temperate enough to use. If there is a long pause in the time it takes for the hot water to become usable at the point of use, then maybe a in-line pump should be considered. There should be anti-scald protection on the shower if installed within the last 5 years. Your inspector should turn the shower faucet to hot, after being assured the hot water has been supplied to the bathroom; and pull on the water control. The water should not be hot enough to scald your hand. If the water is that hot and you have anti-scald protection, then you should consider turning down the temperature on your water heater. The next important function in your bathroom is the protection provided by GFIC outlets and circuits. The GFIC outlets are recognizable by their "test" button in the center of the unit. If there is not a GFIC outlet in the bathroom, your inspector should check to see if you have a GFIC breaker on this circuit in the panel box. If this also is not the case, this situation should be addressed immediately. Lastly, after checking water pressure, and anti-scald, the electrical circuitry; then your inspector should check your fan and other exhaust systems. The bath fan is very important to the control of moisture. Exhausting the bath fan directly to the exterior is a very important function in the performance of the homes' ventilation system. Finally, the overall prevention against moisture is done with the right caulking, bath materials, and using the fan and ventilation source correctly. Just a quick word about air exchangers. Air exchangers can help eliminate the moisture level tremendously. Although not a requirement, the air exchanger is probably the most practical method of controling moisture levels in new construction, and eliminating the moisture levels in existing homes. Until next time-remember to make sure your inspector is CERTIFIED. -Inspector Tom

The Interior

2007-05-05T07:32:00.000-05:00

In order to do a complete Home Inspection, one must pay particular attention to the interior of the home. The interior encompasses a great many areas of the home, walls, ceilings, floors, doors, interior trim, stairs, railings, and all other components making up the environment in which we live. The walls, to begin with, must have a finish intact. The paint must not be peeling, indicating problems with moisture, holes in the walls can indicate problems with insulation and give way to intrusion from exterior elements. Dark spots in areas on the walls can be a good indicator of a mold or mildew growing. All of these things must be tested by your Home Inspector using a moisture meter. (As discussed in the previous post.) Trim around windows and baseboard, aside from giving the interior the finished look, perform a distinct function. The window trim will seal the rough opening around the window installation from air infiltration, and the baseboard will keep dust, and other undesirable elements from migrating into the insulation cavity. The ceilings, in most applications, give us our protection from fires in the attic,and provide mounting places for light fixtures etc. The floors of course, give us the walking surface and placement of all our furniture and the like. Floor should not be "bouncy", should not squeak excessively, or should not be cold. A good Home Inspector will test all of these elements during his inspection. Of all the elements of the inspection these Interior items are the most apparent. Although "wallpaper and Paint" items such as paneling and carpet are not regulated by the building code; they certainly play a significant part in the "look" or how a home "shows". Stairs and handrails and stair railings should be installed to give a complete feel to the stair when going up or down the stairs. The height of the stairs, or the rise and run of the stairs should not vary more than 3/8" according to the code. Try the stairs many times to see if you feel any significant difference in their height. You will notice the difference right away. This could result in a tripping hazard either going up or down the stairs. All things considered, you as the home owner will know right away if the interior is up to your liking. Of course the color schemes and decorating can be changed, so try to look beyond these basic items. Good Luck on your "interior decorating". -Inspector Tom

Moisture in the Home

2007-04-16T08:49:00.001-05:00

Homes these days are subjected to many sources of moisture. Bathrooms and kitchens are probably the worst. Bathrooms, of course, must have an exhaust fan in order to remove the excess moisture from the room. Exhaust fans are sized according to the maximum amount of moisture laden air capable of being removed. In most cases the fans are approximately 50-100 CFM (cubic feet per minute). In a standard size bathroom, 8'x5'x8' the maximum amount of "heavy" air in cubic feet would be 320 cubic feet. A fan capable of 100 CFM per minute will exchange all of the cubic feet of air in that room approximately every 3 minutes. A kitchen, however, presents several problems. First of all, kitchens are usually much larger than bathrooms. The extent of an exhaust fan is usually just an exhaust fan over the stove, or a range hood with a fan ducted to the outside. The amount of air exchanged with this type of set up is actually minimum compared to the amount of heavy air produced. Another producer of moisture laden air is the occupants in the building. The people living inside the home contribute to the amount of air needing to be exchanged. All of this is leading up to the need for an air exchanger. Air exchangers in homes reduce the amount of moisture laden air collecting inside the home and replace it with fresh air from the exterior of the building. We will do another posting on air exchangers soon. The only other problem with exchanging air in homes is that fans only work if people use them. An inspector will look to see that all the fans are functional, and that there are no traces of excessive moisture. He will use a moisture meter to determine the amount of moisture is in the air, in the walls, in the floors, and anywhere else it may be a problem. A good test then would be to test the air, run the fans for 15 minutes, and test the air again. Knowing the size of the fan is helpful. Make sure your inspector does a fan test and a moisture test of the interior air environment. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions. Until next time-A safe home has been inspected! -Inspector Tom

The Week That Was

2007-04-09T15:31:00.000-05:00

Just returning from Browns Valley, Minnesota; I have a new found respect for these people. Having survived a recent flood, the townspeople are not yet ready to give up. Most have already cleaned out their lower levels, replaced furnaces, electrical panels, water heaters and the like, and are pressing on. Great Story! This week I would like to talk a little bit about plumbing. Plumbing needs to be looked at in all Home Inspections as one of the very important, basic systems of the Home. Most plumbing these days is of the PVC or ABS variety. PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipe is probably the most common. Your Home Inspector should be looking for a purple colored or different colored solvent/cleaner on the pipe before it is glued together. This should be evident with the contrasting color. If there is not a contrasting color evident on the piping at the joints, then in all probability, it was just glued and not cleaned first. If this is the case, then the joint will probably fail at some point. Make sure that the piping has been cleaned with solvent of a different color, and then glued. ABS pipe is a little different. Usually black in color and usually glued with a black glue with the solvent already in the glue. There is no different colored solvent for this type of piping. The Inspector is looking to make sure that all of our joints are glued, that all of the piping is running with a slope or grade of a minimum of 1/4 inch to the foot, and make sure venting is correct. Venting is important for each fixture to function properly. The plumbing system should never be put together with two different types of pipe and glued. The glue for one will not work for the other. Combination glues are available, however they only give a glue joint, not a solvent joint for complete adhesion. If your plumbing is noisy, has a distinctive odor, or is put together with various styles of clamps and glues; it probably is not a professional job. Have it checked out by a professional plumber as soon as possible. Next week we will talk a little about plumbing fixtures.

Brown's Valley

2007-04-01T12:50:00.000-05:00

Hello again. I am taking this week off from posting helpful information as I will be gone to Brown's Valley Minnesota doing some damage determinations for the Minnesota DNR. There was a significant flood in Brown's Valley due to ice jams and spring thaws. I will let you know how it went when I return next week. Down for now-Inspector Tom

The Basement and Crawl Space

2007-03-26T14:00:00.000-05:00

Basements and crawl spaces are always a challenge. An experienced inspector will be looking for several items in the lower level of your home. The basement or crawl space is the only place the inspector can see the underside of your floors to check your trusses and support system. First of all basements and crawl spaces come in many different "flavors". Anywhere from wooden to cast-in-place concrete. Older homes sometimes have a foundation system made from whatever is on the land at the time of construction. As an example, some are made from stone, or rock or some just built on top of the ground. No matter what the material, the basic items that need to be inspected remain the same. Secondly, the footings must be able to support the building. If the building is built within the past 30-40 years the footing probably are fine. Rock or older wooden timber foundations probably do not sit on a footing of any kind. If your house has a timber or rock foundation you should have a qualified foundation contractor look at your foundation to determine if a footing is under it. Third, the foundation walls will be checked inside the home to make sure there no cracks wide enough to allow moisture to invade the space or to check for foundation insulation. Other items inspected inside foundations are such things as, covering up of foam insulation, wide cracks in the floor, seepage or water infiltration, mildew or mold growth, and finally making sure the house is fastened to the foundation in a workmanlike manner. Basements and crawlspaces are very important. If the foundation is weak, the structure will be weak. It all starts with a strong foundation system. If you have any questions make sure you contact Inspector Tom. Until next week-we will start on the inside of the house with the Mechanical. Thanks, Inspector Tom

What to look for in a Home Inspection: ATTIC

2007-03-20T10:35:00.000-05:00

The attic is the space above your ceiling and below the roof deck. This space is very important as it is the only large insulated air space between your ceiling and the exterior of the house. Ventilation in the attic is critical. If the attic space is not ventilated, there is a strong chance that this space will collect moisture from the warm air rising from the heated spaces below through several cracks and small open spaces such as light fixture boxes. When this warm air mixes with the cold film of air at the underside of the roof deck, it condenses and forms moisture. During the cold season, this moisture freezes on the underside of the roof deck. This is not a problem as long as the temperature is below freezing, however, as soon as it warms up and the roof deck is warmed by the sun, BINGO!, water drips off the underside of the roof into the insulation, ruining the insulation and creating a wet spot on the ceiling. New home construction addresses this issue with good attic ventilation from the soffits through the roof at the peak, called a "ridge vent" or through portals with storm covers call "jacks" sized according to the amount of space ventilated. Roof jacks and ridge vents allow for cool air to blow in from the vent strip on the soffit right through the roof attic cavity keeping the air moving thus, no moisture build-up and no frost to cause moisture drip into the insulation. Your inspector should note, on his written report, the condition of the attic space. Making sure that the ventilation is working properly, the depth of insulation is adequate, paying particular attention to the trusses. He should make sure there are no cracked or broken trusses as evidenced by a "soft spot" on the roof itself. (Make sure someone gets on the roof to check for soft spots as they do the roofing inspection as mentioned in the previous posting.) A clean, dry attic space that is well ventilated and insulated will save a lot of money in energy costs and maintenance costs for years to come. IT'S IMPORTANT! Next week: the Basement or Crawl Space. Thanks, Inspector Tom

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A HOME INSPECTION: Roof

2007-03-16T08:07:00.000-05:00

When your inspector arrives at your address to do the Home Inspection; one of the initial inspections he makes is an immediate visual inspection of the roof. This initial inspection should alert the inspector to procedures such as taking a close look at flashing, if there is a fireplace chimney or other types of protrusions in the roof. A thorough examination cannot be done from the ground. Most inspectors will get on the roof with a long ladder and do a very close examination, unless the pitch of the roof is very steep. Then the inspector should at the very least use binoculars to get a fairly good picture of the shape of the roof. (A steep roof pitch would be one greater than 6:12.) The inspector should be looking for roof covering material, flashing, loose or missing shingles or other components, and vents for the attic. Roof coverings are of of many different materials. Most common are asphalt shingles or split ceder type. The inspector will examine the roof closely for the following: * loose or missing shingles * missing roof "jacks" or vent caps for plumbing and attic vents * flashing and "step" flashing along walls and chimneys * ridge-caps missing or loose * metal roof edge under shingles * under layment Although the roof is a very important component of the overall inspection, the life span of most roof materials is at least 15-20 years. Make sure you look in the Declarations of the Purchase Agreement for the age of the roof. And, as always, make sure your inspector is certified. Remember, a good Certified Home Inspection will "SEAL THE DEAL".

Garages and Outbuildings

2007-03-09T08:36:00.000-06:00

Garages will be the next item to be inspected. Garages are basically classified as either attached or detached from the main structure. In order for a garage building to be attached correctly to the main building, it must have a similar footing and foundation structure as the house. As an example, the house will have a minimum of a 5' frost free foundation system. If the garage is attached to the same house with this type of foundation system, it must then be supported by the same 5' frost free foundation system. (In Northwestern Minnesota, where these writings originate from, the frost depth is 5 feet. This means that the average depth the frost will move to is 5 feet from the surface.) If the garage is attached, the inspector will assume that the foundation of the garage meets the same specification as the house if it was built at the same time as the house. A question that should be addressed by any prospective buyer is:"Does the garage have a foundation?" It is important because some garages were built as though they were detached from the house without a foundation. This becomes an issue with remodeling garage space to add living space to a home without building an addition. Have your inspector make sure the foundation system is there. Garage slabs are also part of the inspection and should be looked at closely. Sever cracking or heaving may indicate other problems. Older garages have hand-framed rafters. Make sure the "collar-ties" are in place and not split or broken. Collar ties connect the "heels" of the rafters at the top of the wall. Roof coverings should be looked at the same as the roof on the house and what kind of driveway or approach is in place. Garages are a large selling point for most homes, so make sure the same attention is given to the garage whether or not it is attached to the home. Out buildings such as garden sheds should be looked at with the same scrutiny as garages are. Pay particular attention to whether or not it sits on a concrete slab. These types of buildings should have treated lumber on all areas in contact with concrete or areas susceptible to moisture. Next week: The Roof!

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A HOME INSPECTION: Exterior

2007-02-27T09:13:00.000-06:00

This week we will start a series of "What to look for in a home inspection" pieces. In this first one we will look at the exterior. The exterior of the home in question is very important as it gives us a first impression of how we will perceive the rest of the home. A lot is said about "curb-appeal". Curb appeal is how good or appealing it looks from a street approach. Curb appeal is responsible for making up one's mind as to whether you will even take the time to go in. Some real estate agents tell me that 50% of the sale is due to curb appeal. If it is not appealing from the street, no one will look at it. Curb appeal is given some weight by most home inspectors, however it is only one piece of the exterior as a whole. Home Inspectors will look at the overall condition of the concrete and all hard surfaces. A marred or spauled surface on the concrete indicates that the hard surface is nearing the end of its use and probably should be replaced. Spauling is when the smooth surface of the concrete chips or breaks away and leaves a rough open stone surface, usually a trip hazard. The next item looked at from the exterior is the landscaping. The International Building Code requires the exterior landscape to slope away from the building with a 6:1 slope for 10 feet. Also the exterior grade should come below the siding level about 3-4 inches. Once the grade and hard surfaces are inspected, the inspection moves on to the siding and windows. Siding should not be eroded, or rotted in any way. Maintenance free exterior finishes should be applied correctly. (i.e. vinyl siding should not be "waving" at you indicating being nailed to tightly.). Paint should not be peeling and window sashes should be in good shape. Soffits and fascia should not be separating from the building, and the vented soffit should be open. The roof although part of the exterior, is a separate category and will be looked at in depth in a future posting. Shrubbery should not be making contact with the walls of the building, should be neatly trimmed, and not obstructing any egress (exiting) windows. Downspouts should extend well away from the building assuring the run-off will be expelled away from the foundation wall. Make sure the lawn is mowed, and the noxious weed population is under control. Collectively these items may not be important to some, however, we must remember that we are trying to make good impression for the sale, and first impressions certainly are important for saleability. I am adding something new this week, how to contact Inspector Tom if you have any questions. You can contact me at my Google mail site at: spoor.tom@gmail.com . All comments or questions are welcome.